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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2008 16:59:32 GMT
Just finished putting the bike back together after fitting the PCIII, K&N and Mivv Suono end can. Fired her up, no problems that I can hear except I have 'FI' flashing on the instrument panel and the red LED's also flashing? I'm put a map that 'sort-of' matches what my set-up is on the PCIII. Cant see any obvious cabling mistake - any ideas? ?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2008 12:04:57 GMT
OK, I've since found out why the FI light is on. When the ignition is switched on, there are various tests going on throughout the bikes managed system. One of these tests opens and closes the power valve, noting at which point it is fully closed and open. Now, as I have removed the cabling and the valve, the operation reports an error as there is no cable present. See picture below; [a href=" "] [/a] this is the electrical motor housing that moves the valve, (NearSide of bike) [a href=" "] [/a] And this is the power valve on the stock end can; [a href=" "] [/a] The solution I've been advised is to replace the cabling and place clamps on the power valve end to simulate an open and closed position on the 'no longer existing' power valve. This should then eradicate the fault I hope that makes sense?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2008 14:07:34 GMT
Sorry Mate- it makes absolutely no sense to me what-so-ever. At least one of us knows what the f**k it's all about !!!
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Post by steve1968 on Apr 4, 2008 15:05:32 GMT
Why have they decided to create all these problems with the 07 onward bikes . Thank god I've got a pre 06. Nice and simple, cans off.....cans on......no chew ;D
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Post by kentsclan on Apr 5, 2008 18:23:55 GMT
The problem you have is that when you removed the 10 mm head bolt from the centre of the valve the valve has turned manualy anti clockwise ? refit the valve and turn it back to centre then hold it in that position and again remove bolt its a common fitting problem you must must prevent the valve from moving when removing the bolt there is no need to refit cables etc the but the pre test must think the valve is working
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2008 10:23:25 GMT
Thanks for th pictures Kentsclan. The postioning of your valvebolt is different to mine, mine's TDC? You might be right, but I didn't remove the 10mm head bolt. After the F1 GP, I'm going to go out and look what happens when you turn on the ignition. I'll record it and put it up on YouTube. This might give us more of an insight into what's happening. I also have documentation from G&G endcans, which shows a method to keeping the cables attached, (unfortunitally it doesn't specify why!!). Cheers, Ollie
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Post by drewzthouk7 on Apr 6, 2008 11:51:59 GMT
had that come up on my K5 gixxer thou. had to remove a cable from the ECU plug but havnt heard of this problem on these bikes before? mine was simply removed and it works fine? bit baffled mate if you never removed the wheel as you said. what happens to the wheel when you turn ignition on? it should turn left and right as others have said?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2008 15:05:04 GMT
OK, so after some investigation, I sourced my flashing 'FI' light problem. When I was removing the cabling, I must have stripped the gear internal to the motor-housing, as it's supposed to move as part of the POST when you turn the ignition, see video; When I removed the motor-housing and dismantled it, it was clear what my problem was ; [a href=" "] [/a] The solution was to swap the copper fingers and rotate the plastic gear 180 Degrees on the spindle. This moved the broken teeth away from the metal gear [a href=" "] [/a] The 'sensing' half of the housing looks like this; [a href=" "] [/a] Now when the ignition is switched on, the valve can rotate and pass it's internal diagnostics. Happy Man ;D
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Post by kentsclan on Apr 7, 2008 15:58:32 GMT
Good job on the fault finding
shame there seams to be a lack of admin on the site as some of the posts have very good information and could be put as a sticky but no admin no sticky there was a previous post on the subject and if you had seen it you could of possibly avoided it
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2008 14:41:54 GMT
Good job on the fault finding there was a previous post on the subject and if you had seen it you could of possibly avoided it Bugger
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2008 14:49:51 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2008 23:55:20 GMT
Ollie, Hope you can help as I think this is what I have done. Being mechanically challenged, how easy is this to do and how long did it take?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2008 0:14:28 GMT
And another thing, could you repost the pics you took as your links to photobucket have gone down (any help would be appreciated . Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2008 11:39:15 GMT
As said before, although it was supposedly the WRONG way, the way I did mine you don't touch that valve, so no risk of this hassle! It's on here somewhere as a reply to someone...
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2008 19:13:21 GMT
Did you post it or someone else? Dunno if I should be worried as the valve doesn't move at all even on start up but the engine seems OK and I don't think I am suffering power loss. I just wanna get rid of the damn flashing light!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2008 22:25:42 GMT
Answered my own question. used ridersforums where there is another bloke who had a similar problem. not difficult to fix but no doubt knackers the warranty!
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