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Post by invitro on Jul 13, 2020 12:07:11 GMT
Never had a 1st gen myself. But a bike shouldn't kreep forward with clutch completely pulleb
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Post by keef666 on Jul 19, 2020 7:46:11 GMT
So had two weeks of riding to and from work and a little blast last Sunday when it wasn't raining to bed the new clutch plates in, still has that creeping motion with clutch lever pulled in, feet down waiting at a road junction ready to pull out, still think the last owner had this problem hence why he messed around with the clutch lever and holder on the bars, so not should if its something to do with the gear box, selector forks sticking etc, and way went i do accelerate say in third gear doing around 30mph up to 55mph and before i change up to fourth you can hear and feel the clutch slipping, so as the Sun has come out going to change the oil again, got me some Rock Oil Guardian 10/40 £34 for 4 litres, when did they stop doing 5 litres?
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Post by invitro on Jul 20, 2020 12:40:59 GMT
Is your clutch assembly within these specs? 48,4 - 49 mm? If bigger, that would explain the creeping forward. Otherwise i'm at a loss aswell Over here on the mainland i havent seen any 5L containers for motorbikes . Never heard of of rock oil, is that an UK brand?
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Post by keef666 on Jul 25, 2020 5:48:17 GMT
Yes oil used to be sold in 5 litres cans, but these days its 4 litres. Rock Oil is made local up near Manchester area, but would have thought you could get it anywhere around the World, they also sponsor race teams. As for the chart as far as i know all the parts fitted should comes within theses sizes and tolerances, but i was thinking the pressure push rod has a washer and flat cage needle bearing, as i pull the clutch lever in and pull the pressure pull rod out, if i fitted say another washer or two to increase the thickness on the pressure plate it could pull it out a little more thus disengaging that bit more?
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Admin
Idling
The Hand Of God Has Spoken
Posts: 54
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Post by Admin on Jul 30, 2020 3:01:14 GMT
What oil have you been using, the HomeBargains 10W40 Rock Oil was this a dedicated motorcycle oil? Just a long shot, but car oil has a friction additive which will mess up a motorcycle clutch... just a thought.
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Post by keef666 on Jul 30, 2020 6:21:05 GMT
Well i was buying this each month, and changing the oil used to cost around £11.99 but the price went up over time, yes i believe it's car oil, but i don't think that was the problem, i think it's something else, maybe worn gear parts? Saw a you tube video the other day from a link on here, with working on the gears and shift parts by removing the sump tray and leaving the motor in the frame.
The more i think about it the more i think there was a underlying problem when i bought the bike, the dealer was a con artist, i never learn?
The oil i am using now is for bikes and made by Rock Oil, in fact they do a number of different makes all come at different prices!
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Admin
Idling
The Hand Of God Has Spoken
Posts: 54
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Post by Admin on Jul 31, 2020 20:43:14 GMT
Car oil will impregnate the friction plates with an extreme pressure additive which will make a bike clutch slip, therefore people adjust the clutch thinking it is not engaging correctly. It will take a while to get out of the friction plates. As you have now bought a motorcycle oil I would be interested to follow what happens. I need to read over the whole thread to get the full picture. I have stripped a few large Kawasaki gear boxes and to my knowledge the Z1000 2013+ does not suffer from gear issues.
A sticking or bluing clutch sounds like a slipping clutch to me that is overheating!?
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Post by keef666 on Aug 5, 2020 8:42:52 GMT
Booked bike in for MOT next Monday, and told him the clutch is still not disengaging fully, after all the time and money spent, he said he will take a look, so hoping someone who knows can fix it, but then another problem , see new thread
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Post by invitro on Aug 11, 2020 7:50:20 GMT
Booked bike in for MOT next Monday, and told him the clutch is still not disengaging fully, after all the time and money spent, he said he will take a look, so hoping someone who knows can fix it, but then another problem , see new thread And what is the outcome?
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Post by keef666 on Aug 16, 2020 6:12:12 GMT
Well got the bike in for an MOT last Monday, 10th Aug, and not my mate but his works partner did the testing, told me exhaust noisy, and altered the adjuster on the handlebar, went though what the problem was and what i had done, he told me i need some slack on the cable as it puts pressure on the pressure plate all the time, i said i bought a second hand clutch and on the weekend i will swap it over, sounds a good idea he said as i paid my money and rode the bike home. [ so much for them having a look?]
Saturday morning, stripped out the clutch hub and both plates, now as i had also drilled out the clutch hub in the modification to allow more oil on to the plates, i was surprised to see the friction plates dry. So carried on and rebuilt the clutch using old plates and the hub i bought, started the bike up and into first gear, clutch lever in and back wheel spinning away, did adjustments on handlebar, clutch lever really hard to pull in, and hard to stop the back wheel when i put my foot on the Tyre, so off we go again, took the old plates out and stuck the new ones back in, a lot better, still won't fully disengage 100%, and still no much slack on cable.
But i thought putting older used clutch plates in would have helped, the plates being worn and all, seems like i have a lemon with this clutch, its either i fix it and it allows me to sell the bike at some point or i live with it?
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