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Post by keef666 on Jun 20, 2020 12:25:31 GMT
New clutch hub ordered £393, that takes me to over £750 spent so far!
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Post by keef666 on Jun 23, 2020 17:50:34 GMT
Went down to see my mechanic mate and he had a good look at the hub basket, told me the loose springs can be shimmed., and it will only cause a rattle sound, so told me to save my money, cancelled the new hub, So this morning i rebuilt my clutch mostly new parts fitted, started the bike into first gear and the damn thing still won't disengage, so i stuck, don't know what else to do
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Post by invitro on Jun 23, 2020 18:29:17 GMT
That sucks... maybe still get back onto those new parts?
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Post by keef666 on Jun 24, 2020 7:43:43 GMT
The one thing i didn't order was the clutch release, the part that the cable fits on to and into the casing, got this nagging thought in my mind it could be that, not pulling the plates back enough, so ordered one of them, yep another £40
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Post by trebor4460 on Jun 24, 2020 7:59:23 GMT
did you cheeck the stack height , will make a massive difference if its too high?
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Post by keef666 on Jun 25, 2020 4:54:29 GMT
No haven't checked the stack as i replaced all the plates with new, including the springs, i went back to my mates yesterday and told him still having problems, he said the same, replace most of the parts with new, and he just shook his head, so even he's baffled?
Had the bike four years now, and i have always had to alter the clutch adjuster on the bars, even when out for a short trip, had trouble getting it in to neutral, all sorts of little things like that, even gone though three cables as the others have snapped on me, then haven't to push the bike home. And got me thinking did the last owner have the same problem? He changed the clutch lever over to the short racing style that was on the bike when i bought her, but he put on a different adjuster and changed the clutch lever holder as well, i have replaced all that and gone back to original parts. So if he had a problem, with me replacing these parts i have brought it back? But even when i have swapped it back to the older lever etc, it still won't work, i have waited all year for the Summer months to ride her and been walking to work for nearly two months now and its getting me down as the nights will be drawing in from now on.
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Post by invitro on Jun 25, 2020 7:56:04 GMT
Checking your stackheigt might be usefull too.
Frictionplates are not made with very accurate tollerances. Thats why you can order different thickness of steelplates, to compensate for the frictionplates
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Post by keef666 on Jun 27, 2020 10:00:35 GMT
Stripped the clutch out again and took a stack measurement with calipers, kawasaki metal and Gecko friction 50mm, put the metal with the EBC i replaced this came out at 49mm, so theres a 1 mm difference also fitted the new release arm, but putting it all back and starting the bike its still won't disengage, the clutch lever is so hard to pull in, so going to strip her down again
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Post by keef666 on Jun 27, 2020 11:50:45 GMT
Stripped the plates out again and rebuilt it with all the old EBC and the new metal Kawasaki plates, still won't disengage, but noticed there's now no slack in the cable or should that be free play, thinking i might have the adjuster pulled to far out down at the casing, but as i just got soaked in a downpour going to leave this till the morning to check!
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Post by keef666 on Jun 28, 2020 14:27:43 GMT
So i had a go at adjusting the cable adjusters, first the one down on the casing, turned it all way in, cable slack, and started the bike and into first, still stuck, turned the adjuster out in stages but still stuck in gear, then on the handle bar adjuster did the same thing for around 30 mins, nothing, turned the engine off to cool down and put her in gear, took the oil filler cap off and with a torch to shine some light looked to see if the pressure plate was moving as i pulled in the clutch lever, yes! its moving but not much, maybe around 2 to 3 millimetres of travel, i gripped the back wheel and gave it a pull there's some play as it moves, let clutch lever out and can't budge it now. I sit on the bike engine running[ in my backyard] and put her in first gear let the clutch out slowly [ as well as the front brake lever] and she needs around 2.000 rpm before she moves off, and that's not even a smooth release, feels jerky, turned the lever adjuster out and try again, seems to be easier on back wheel but still needing 2.000 rpm to move off, but the cable is tight that much, there's no free play left. I was thinking using the heavy duty and longer EBC springs could be causing the problem? if i put back the shorter old ones will that give me more travel on the pressure plate as i pull in the lever?
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Post by trebor4460 on Jun 28, 2020 15:47:53 GMT
it sounds to me as when lever pulled in and clutch engaging the springs are either coil locking or the stack is too high.. i would deffo put the standard springs in, and try again..
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Post by invitro on Jun 29, 2020 21:02:55 GMT
I'd suggest the same as trebbor. Rule stuff out by going standard again
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Post by keef666 on Jul 4, 2020 5:31:54 GMT
Well in between the rain, i managed to strip it down again, and took someones advise and turned the metal plates around so the curve side was facing in, check all my springs i have and found the shortest ones, and fitted those but in the end still doing the same thing, wheel spinning, and sitting on her 2,000 rpm before she moves off, if the stack height is too much, would the clutch work if i say took out a friction plate and a metal plate? Mine has 10 friction and 9 metal, i think i have to try this, just losing all hope of every riding the bloody thing this year
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Post by keef666 on Jul 5, 2020 15:33:10 GMT
Well rained off for yesterday, so even though its blowing a gale by me, had another go of stripping the clutch out, undid the holding nut on the clutch basket and checked the hub out seemed to be ok, refitted basket, then fitted the hub and then the clutch plates [ the new ones i bought together with the metal drive plates], then found which were the longest springs i had and fitted these, now i only fitted a new one around two months ago but even swapped the clutch cable over, put the oil in and fired her up. In to first wheel moving, so adjusted the handle bar adjuster, lever a little stiff, holding lever in reached over with my foot, applying pressure with said foot managed to stop wheel rotating, let clutch lever out, etc, off the Abba stand and astride bike, into first and no throttle let clutch out, she creeps forward slightly, let clutch out with a bit of throttle and moves off, the only thing i worried about is a strange noise, but this could be the lose springs [ two little bit rattly ] at the rear of the basket hub or it could be me imagining things.
So i don't know what i had done to get this far, why didn't she do this eight weeks ago? i haven't been out on the road as the wind here is crazy, so will have to try in the morning, before i go to work, oh and then the rear indicator started playing up so had to remove the rear seat cowling to check the wiring out, it never rain's for it pours!
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Post by keef666 on Jul 7, 2020 6:07:19 GMT
Monday morning went to work on her and the damn clutch is slipping now, just don't know what is going on, will try putting the shorter springs back in and see what happens, my guess, it won't disengage again?
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Post by invitro on Jul 7, 2020 6:18:00 GMT
Have you tried adjusting thr cable on both ends?
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Post by keef666 on Jul 8, 2020 5:36:27 GMT
Been adjusting the cable all the time, taken up the slack at the casing the two nut holding it on to the casing are at the limit, and the other at the bars well when that was turned in the cable was slack and wouldn't disengage the clutch at all, so wound it out to see if that worked, but in doing so, the lever gets harder and harder to pull in, they say you should have a few millimetres of play in the lever, that's one thing i can't get.
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Post by trebor4460 on Jul 9, 2020 8:40:04 GMT
running out of ideas with this one.. if you take the cable off can you then go to the activating arm and push it, its gonna be firm, firmer than mine i guess as mines a slipper assist but quite doable and does it move at least 10 mm and disengage the clutch.. its gonna be stiff as the mechanical advantage of the lever is gone, also while it is disconnected just check the cable is moving freely in the sheath and cable length is right..
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Post by trebor4460 on Jul 9, 2020 8:44:20 GMT
what year is it by the way?
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Post by keef666 on Jul 10, 2020 7:24:00 GMT
The bike is 2006, Well after having problems with clutch back in May i think it started, and the cable coming out of the adjuster at the handlebar, buying new levers and the holder on the bars, then moving down into the clutch and spending £600 on new parts and some second hand, trying to find what the problem was, eight weeks off the road and only having the weekends to work on the bike was taking its toil on me, getting really stressed out at work, but last weekend i just stripped the clutch out and rebuilt it started up the bike and pulled in the clutch lever in, after i made adjustments on the cable, put my foot on the back wheel and it stopped turning, that's the first time its done that in god know how many try's. But the down side was the clutch was now slipping as i rode her to work, the following morning got up early and dropped the oil out, this is oil that had been in the bike around a month and had covered ten miles if that of riding, cost me £30, changed the clutch springs on the pressure plate and filled up with cheap oil from Home bargains Rock oil 10/40 £14.99 for 5 litres, and been riding the bike since, when i pull up to traffic lights etc with the clutch lever pulled i can still feel a little forward motion so i know its not a 100% fixed but she was like this when i first got her, don't know if everyone else is like this. But after all this time what the hell was the problem and now its ok? Maybe my baby was telling me she wanted a rest for a few weeks!
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